Hi,
Let me start by saying: York is an AMAZING place!
My holiday began the moment I put my suitcase in my room and made my bed. I
zooted out of the hostel at a speed near to that of sound and into town. The walk into town is quite long (about 15-20 minutes), but once you are in the town, the world (well, york) is your oyster! Tuesday afternoon was spent in York Art gallery (where there was a special exhibit by Tracy Chevalier on 'A Thousand Words' - which was pretty cool. They allowed you to write comments on a wall by the pictures on what you think the painting depict/what the portraits are thinking etc. There was another special exhibit on, entitled 'Out of the Shadows' which showed the use of light and dark in pictures). After the museum, I walked around York a little and then headed back to the hostel for some dinner. I had just gotten dinner when Shaun phoned, so we spent a good part of the evening talking.
Wednesday arrived. I got up around 07h30, got dressed and went down to breakfast (which is included in the price). I was absolutely astounded by the buffet selection on offer. I had the choice between juice, stewed fruits, cheeses, meats, scrambled egg, sausages, baked beans, hash browns, toast, chocolate croissants, buns and cereal. This is all followed by a selection of tea, coffee and hot chocolate... it was a really nice start to a busy day. I went back upstairs to collect my belongings and headed out on the town. I started the day walking to the Minster for some photos, then to the cat gallery (which, as you may have guessed is a shop dedicated to cats!!!!!!!) I then went and waited for the two hour guided tour of York. The guide was a gentleman who was born and raised in York, who gave a very
in depth, personal view of York and its changes. It was a VERY good tour. After the tour had ended, I went to the railway museum. The railway museum is the largest in the world (but it seemed surprisingly small). It was worth a visit, but I would suggest that anyone visiting gets the audio commentary to accompany it (otherwise it does not make as much of an impact as it would/should). By the time I had finished these two outings, it was dark (granted it gets dark around 16h00 here at the moment). I headed back for the warmth and comfort of the hostel. I got back to the hostel, hired a towel and went for a LONG hot shower.
Thursday arrived, I got out of bed around 08h00 and went for breakfast. After breakfast, I gathered my stuff and headed out for some more sight seeing.
I walked into town along the river O
use. I got into town and did some general site-seeing. I started with the 10 acres of museum gardens (botanic gardens in the middle of York). It contains the remains of St Mary's Abbey (as well as its associated chapel and
undercroft), the west corner of the roman fort, the
multangular tower and parts of the roman walls. There is also the A
nglian tower (which is not all that impressive). The garden now houses the Yorkshire Museum and its octagonal
obseravtory. What I found most interesting was that Dame Judi
Dench filmed her first movie in front of St Mary's Abbey (typically, I would find that interesting!!!!) After touring the museum gardens (and messing with the squirrels - of which there are thousands (well, you catch my drift!)) I went to the middle of the town, to the Shambles.
Apparently, the Shambles is
Europes most visited street. I'm not 100% sure why, but I do know that for some strange reason I tend to end up in the street every time I take a wrong turn (so that's how they get it to be the most visited street in Europe!!!!) Well, the Shambles was once home to as many as 26 butchers. They would hang up their meat on hooks outside their shops and then get rid of all the innards (which they would only wash down the street twice a week) - which is why the street has pavements. The shambles is also well known because of the tilt of the buildings (which make the roof tops nearly touch each other) as well as the shrine to Margaret
Clitherow (not her real home though - typically, the council bought the house and converted it into a shrine to her... her home was thought to be number 10 shambles (but no-one really knows)). Turns out she was found guilty of housing catholics and so was sentenced to be pressed between two slabs, and starved... (who needs hanging or fire when you have rocks???)
After visiting this 'lovely' place, I turned off the shambles and headed into
newgate market. The market boasts 110 stalls within Europe's largest single pedestrianised area (the market is apparently the heart and soul of the city and offers a wide variety of dried goods, fruit, vegetables and well as meat and fish). So, york offers yet another large place (makes me wonder if they are compensating for something!!) At the market, I purchased a hat, some gloves and some socks (I just could not resist the socks.... um... I think I'm going to have to join the Socks
Anonymous club!)
All the walking around had made me hungry, so I popped into pizza hut for some lunch (not very healthy, but it was warm and comforting!)
After lunch, I went to the shortest street in York, called Whip-ma-whop-ma-gate, which is 35 metres long (I think the name is longer than the street!). In Anglo-S
axan times, it was referred to as
Whitnourwhatnourgate ('neither one thing, nor the other')... After that exhausting walk along the street I went for a walk along the city walls. I went to each of the
enterances (
Bootham bar, Monk Bar,
Walmgate Bar and
Mickelgate Bar) which was very interesting. After all this site-seeing, I went back to the hostel, stopping at the shops on the way to get something for dinner!
I made some tea and then went upstairs to watch some television. Once I was sufficiently tired, I went to the room to get ready for bed. It was there that I met Tracy. Tracy is a nurse from
Hong Kong, who is visiting England for 13 days and is staying with her friend in London. Needless to say, we were both here alone and so decided to do the big sites together the following day.
I went down to reception and bought a York Pass (a card that allows you access to all the sites for free [you pay £23 for the card]). The guy at reception said jokingly that we were going to have a long day. I laughed and said that I planned to fit in most of the sites. He laughed and said that he did not think it was possible... I said I learned tourism from a pro and that we would speak again after the days' outing.... Then I went back upstairs and readied myself for bed. After lengthy discussions with Tracy, and many plans made, we went to bed.
Friday morning saw me up at 07h00, and eating breakfast around 08h00. Tracy and I left the hostel at 08h30 for our long day out. On the way out the door, the guy who sold us the passes wished us good luck, laughing...
Well, the first order of business was to walk along the river O
use on the Dame Judi
Dench walk to the York Boats (to see what time they depart), then up to the Minster. We got to the Minster just before it opened so that we could take some photos. After our photo session, we went into the minster. It is a
gothic cathedral, and is the second largest in Northern England (Of course, Cologne cathedral is the biggest - so York was outdone there). It is the seat of the Archbishop of York (which is apparently the second highest office of the church of England - again outdone there). BUT, never fear, the cathedral has something that is the BIGGEST and
BESTEST and BRIGHTEST and........ (I know that
bestest is not a word...) Well, the Great East Window of the cathedral is the largest expanse of
medieval stained glass in the world. The cathedral also has the five sisters window (each lancet is 16 metres high!!!!!!!!) and the famous rose window! So the cathedral was well worth a visit!
After the cathedral, we went to the museum gardens (yes, I had done them the previous day, but Tracy hadn't, so I took her on the very brief tour through there on our way to the york boats).
We got onto the York boat which took us upstream and then back downstream and dropped us off where we began. Along the way, we had the tour of the river and all the buildings along the rivers edge. It was rather fascinating. Apparently, in April 2000 the river flooded due to excessive rainfalls. The river rose a scary 5.4 metres (but the riverside houses were saved because York had had a flood earlier and had learned their lesson, so installed a flood wall along the front of each of the properties). However, a local pub (which has been flooded out no less than three times was not spared - turns out they didn't learn their lesson!) We sailed up to the
millennium bridge (which is a walking/cycling bridge which joins each side of the river and promotes the healthy way instead of car travel!) The only downside to the boat was that it was FREEZING (that will teach me - a water cruise in winter time....) I turned to Tracy, who said she was also cold. She then handed me a sachet marked with tons of
Chinese writing. She said that I must just rub the bag and it would start heating up. It did. It was fantastic. I warmed up a little bit (well, as much as a tiny little pouch can warm one up!) After the 45 minute cruise we went to the other side of York, to
Cliffords Tower (Also known as York Castle).
We climbed up the several steps to get into the tower. It is apparently a '
quatrefoil plan' (which is like a four leafed clover - sounds rather impressive though, don't you think), and is rather unusual (they say that it is a copy of a french equivalent)... it has two levels (which means it has a spiral staircase - which i hate!) Now for the encyclopedic part: The tower was an experiment in improving flanking fire by reducing dead ground visible from the summit of the keep.
Enough of that... from the tower you could see most of York, it was really impressive and rather pretty. At the foot of the tower, they had set up an outdoor ice rink (I should have know then that summer was over!) We climbed back down the stairs (both spiral and the ones leading up to the tower) and headed across the way to the castle museum.
The castle museum is one of
Britain's leading museums depicting everyday life. It has loads of rooms showing how people used to live, from household objects (like vacuum cleaners, irons, washing machines) to actual environments (kitchens, prisons, streets, shops, rooms). The museum is best known for its recreation of
Kirkgate. The street has all the old fittings, lights, and atmosphere. It even has a REAL policeman patrolling the streets. Whilst we were there the street turned from day into night, it was really awesome. I peeped through a keyhole in one of the doors and got to spy on people in a shop (projected images from the
Victorian era!) The museum has a special display on the sixties at the moment, which shows the fashion, the music and the everyday life (including listening in on phone calls between people!!!) this meant that i got to see a
meccano set (I bet you are smiling now... ah, the memories!!!!!!! (and if you are my age, you are smiling and nodding!!))
After the castle museum, we went to
Jorvik (what??!! I hear you ask).
JORVIK.....It is a world famous viking centre (naturally!).
Jorvik was
Yorks' prior name. It is one of the most popular visitor attractions in the UK (outside London). It has had over 14 million visitors over the last 21 years. The centre reconstructs the viking-age streets as they would have been in AD975. It is rather cool. You hop into a time capsule that takes you back to the viking era. You are met by a viking (who speaks
English - go figure!) who helps you onto a pod that takes you back to 2008. The pod moves around real environments. When the chocolate factory was knocked down, archaeologists found evidence of the vikings, and so dug up evidence and have since reconstructed their villages, their work, their clothes, their faces... By the end of the pod ride, you are in a museum that shows you the DNA collection and how they reconstructed the scenes.
After touring
Jorvik we went to the dungeons. You enter the dungeons and are taken into the world of torture, deathly tales, court proceedings and scary realms. It was such good fun! We were there with another two groups (one was
Chinese - and would jump at anything, the other were
English and enjoyed it as much as I did!) I really had fun (Tracy was clinging to me like there was no tomorrow!) I was asked to volunteer in the butchers room (where he opened up a person, then took me into the back room to open me up), I was sentenced to be hanged for being a witch who was heard chanting to the devil and
conjuring up one of the other guys in the room (but not before I was tortured - with thumb presses and he was
tortured by having his tongue pulled out). It was really good fun!!!!!
No day would be complete without a trip to the local brewery. We got to the brewery for the 15h30 tour. It was moderately interesting. We were shown around the place told how they make the beer and had some general chit-chat. It made me think though, about the ingredients that most brewers use. By the time we left the tour, we had touched every ingredient in their beer. It made me wonder if beer really is good for you!!??
After the brewery, we went to the Yorkshire museum. The museum houses the archaeology, biology, astronomy and geology collections of York. The collection was interesting, but after the days events, I found it a surprising let-down. Perhaps this was because we had been overwhelmed by such awesome stuff, that in comparison, this was just not as good as it may have been a day earlier.
Alas, all the attractions had now closed... which meant that I could take Tracy to all the tourist spots that were not indoors (shambles, shortest street, cat gallery etc). She appeared to enjoy them as much as I had yesterday! We walked back through the city, stopping to gather some dinner and headed for the warmth of the hostel.
We arrived back at the hostel, made some dinner and said our goodbyes. Tracy left to catch a train to London at 20h00. I finished my supper and gloated to the receptionist about the fact that I had managed to see eight paying sites and several non-paying sites.... he could only blush....
Like I said, I learned from a pro!!!!
I hired a towel, went up to my room, gathered my stuff for my shower and had the most enjoyable hot shower! After my shower, i went and sat on my bed with my book. The bedroom door opened and that was the last I saw of my book. A lady had walked in (she was in her mid 60's) and began a discussion with me. Tried as I might to shut her up, she kept on talking about her life, her children, her adventures, her work.... I gave up, lying back on my bed whilst she spoke. I thought she was just about talked-out when another elderly lady entered the room... OH BOY... they began telling me about all the places i should visit, all the places they had been... I could not help but think: 'why me?'
I woke up this morning after a night close from hell (all the ladies in the rooms had a night-time quirk: one snored, one tossed and turned and the other spoke in her sleep) hoping it had all been a bad dream. Alas, it was far too close to reality. I got up and dressed and went downstairs for breakfast as quickly as I could. I got my food and sat down. I tucked in. The joy of eating food at my own pace, alone, was short-lived. The old ladies sought me out of the crowd and joined me. Great.
Turns out one was here to pray in the cathedral (a life-long dream), the other was here for some
Palestinian society meeting (great, of all the people in the
YHA I have to get the two
nutballs eating breakfast with me).
I have spent the entire day indoors today, as it is a whopping 3 degrees outside (and there is a threat of snow/rain for the next few days). This is not going to stop me though (I laugh in the face of adverse weather conditions). I will be going out tonight to a local pub to have a local brew and listen to a local band...
what could go wrong????